One of the new popular monstera varieties on the block is monstera epipremnoides, also called monstera esqueleto. If you’re a fan of monstera adansonii, you’ll love this variety because its leaves look very similar, only bigger! 

Like the leaves of monstera adansonii, the leaves of the epipremnoides are also slender and pointed with a very similar fenestration pattern. This plant is absolutely stunning and a must-have for any serious monstera collector (or a not-so-serious one who just wants to add some diversity to their indoor jungle!).

While this variety can be expensive and tricky to find (though not as expensive and tricky as the elusive monstera obliqua), it’s relatively easy to care for, especially if you’ve had experience with other monstera varieties and aroids in general.

Where Does Monstera Epipremnoides Originate?

All monsteras are tropical plants, though different varieties originate from different tropical rainforests around the globe. Epipremnoides, in particular, hails from Costa Rica, which makes it well adapted to most indoor conditions.

Monstera Epipremnoides Vs. Monstera Adansonii

Monstera epipremnoides, also called monstera esqueleto. If you're a fan of monstera adansonii, you'll love this variety because its leaves look very similar, only bigger!

Photo Credit: Yong Goh Monstera Plant Resource Community

These two varieties can look very similar, but there are a few differences to watch out for:

Difference #1: Leaf size

First, epipremnoides has larger leaves than adansonii; however, this isn’t foolproof because younger plants may produce smaller leaves while more mature plants produce larger leaves. A mature epipremnoides may produce leaves up to 2 feet long!

Difference #2: Leaf texture and coloring

Another key difference is coloring. Monstera adansonii leaves tend to be very dark green, while monstera epipremnoides leaves are lighter green. The leaves of epipremnoides also tend to be thicker with a more leathery, slightly fuzzy texture, while adansonii leaves are thinner, smoother, and more delicate. 

Difference #3: Fenestration pattern

Finally, the fenestration pattern of these two varieties, while very similar at first glance, do have some differences. While holes on adansonii leaves appear more willy-nilly and vary greatly from leaf to leaf, holes on epipremnoides leaves tend to be larger and take up more of the leaf (similar to obliqua, but not as extreme). 

While none of these factors are enough to differentiate these varieties on their own, looking for all of them can help you determine which type of monstera you’re looking at. 

Monstera Epipremnoides Care

This variety enjoys similar conditions as other types of monsteras, so if you’ve had some practice with a more common variety, like monstera deliciosa or monstera adansonii, you’re more than up to the task of caring for this variety. 

Here’s what you need to know: 

Light

Monstera epipremnoides, like other monsteras, grows below the canopy in tropical rainforests and receives dappled sunlight in the wild.

This translates to bright, indirect sunlight indoors, so place your monstera near a bright window, but never in the sun’s direct rays to prevent scorching the leaves. An east-facing window is a great choice. A south- or west-facing window can also work as long as the sun doesn’t shine directly on the plant.

If you aren’t able to provide enough natural sunlight, you might want to supplement with full-spectrum indoor grow lights.

Soil and Potting

Choose a pot with drainage holes that’s about 2-3 inches larger than your plant’s root ball, and be sure to use a rich soil that drains well like our Premium Monstera Potting Soil. (If you’re a DIY person, we also like the aroid soil recipe in this post.)

Repot every two years or so. At some point, you may also want to add a support like a trellis or moss pole to give your monstera something to climb. This will help it grow upward instead of outward.

Watering

This plant likes to be kept fairly moist, but not soggy. Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or when a moisture meter reads 3-4. Water from the top or bottom and let drain, and make sure to empty the drainage tray immediately so your plant isn’t sitting in water.

Temperature

Monstera epipremnoides will be happy in most average room temperatures, or anywhere between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Try to keep the temperature in your home stable, but keep your plant away from drafts, heaters, fireplaces, and AC/cooling vents, which can freeze or dry out the leaves!

Humidity

This monstera variety does appreciate a fair amount of humidity, so make sure to set up a humidifier nearby or use a humidity tray to keep the leaves nice and supple. To make your own humidity tray, simply place some pebbles in a shallow tray and cover with water, then set your plant’s pot on top of the pebbles, but don’t let the roots touch the water. As the water evaporates, it will create some humidity around your plant! 

It also helps to group plants together to create a little more humidity as they respirate. Simple!

Fertilizer

Keep your monstera well-nourished with a gentle liquid fertilizer. We recommend our Monstera Plant Food, which is specifically formulated for monstera varieties. It’s gentle enough to use with every watering (no memorizing a fertilization schedule!) and ensures a steady supply of nutrients to support leaf growth, sturdy stems, and healthy roots.

Propagation

You can propagate this monstera variety with stem cuttings, separation, or air layering methods. 

How to Propagate Monstera Epipremnoides

Here’s a rundown of each of these propagation methods:

Stem cuttings: Select a fairly young, healthy-looking section of the plant to propagate. Using sterilized shears or a knife, cut off a section of 1-3 leaves, and make sure your cutting includes at least one node (this will look like a little brown bump on the stem across from the base of a leaf). 

Place the cutting in a glass of clean water with a little Propagation Promoter and put the glass in a bright place. Change out the water and Propagation Promoter each week. Within a few weeks, you should see new roots starting to form! When the roots are an inch long, plant the cutting in soil (or keep growing with hydroponic methods) and care for it like you would a mature plant.

Learn more about propagating with cuttings here!

Air layering: Locate a node right below the stem you wish to propagate and make a small cut in the stem near the node. (Make sure to use clean hands and tools!) Wrap the cut area in damp sphagnum moss and cover the whole wad with plastic wrap secured with string or a twist tie. Don’t tie it too tightly. Allow some airflow so the moss doesn’t mold.

Every few days, remove the plastic and rehydrate the moss with water in a spray bottle before replacing the plastic. After a few months, you should see new roots! When the roots are an inch long, cut off the entire section and plant directly into soil or a hydroponic growing medium.

Learn more about air layering here!

Separation: This is a great option if your monstera epipremnoides is getting too big for its pot but you don’t want to go up a size. 

To do this, carefully remove the plant from the pot by tipping it on its side and using gravity to gently coax it out. Massage the root ball to break up the soil, and use your fingers to untangle the roots, separating your monstera into two or more plants. If the roots are tightly wrapped, you can also use a sharp, clean knife or shears to cut the root ball into sections. 

Pot the sections into their own pots. That’s it!

Read: Monstera Propagation: The Ultimate Guide to Propagating Monstera Plants (With Step-by-Step Photos!)

Common Problems

Yellowing lower leaves with brown spots: Your plant is most likely overwatered, but that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re giving it too much water. The problem might be that your pot or soil isn’t draining well enough and your roots are staying wet for too long. Your plant may also need more light so it can use water more efficiently. 

If you notice your leaves and stems browning, check out your potting situation and lighting first. Then address the watering. Make sure you’re not watering more than once a week, and wait until the top few inches feel dry or until your moisture meter reads 3-4 before giving your plant a drink. 

Yellowing leaves all over the plant: Your monstera may be underwatered. Prune off the yellow leaves and make sure to check the soil regularly to see if your plant needs to be watered! 

Browning stems: If your plant’s stems are turning brown and soft, you might have root rot. This condition can kill your plant within days, so it’s important to act quickly! 

Repot the plant into fresh, fast-draining soil and a clean pot with drainage holes. If you notice any mushy, stinky, or blackened roots, trim those off before repotting.

Replace your plant in a spot with great light and go a little easy on the watering for a while. When you do water, use our Root Supplement to protect the roots from further infection and help them heal.

Drooping leaves: Leaves can droop for a lot of reasons. If you recently moved your monstera or repotted it, it may be experiencing root shock and should perk up within a week. 

Your plant may be thirsty if nothing about your plant’s environment has changed. When the soil feels dry more than a few inches down, go ahead and give your monstera a drink.

Dry, crispy spots: This could indicate that your monstera epipremnoides is severely underwatered! Give your plant some water and make sure to keep closer tabs on the soil.

If the soil isn’t dry, make sure your plant is getting enough humidity. Set up a humidifier or pebble tray if you haven’t already, and make sure your plant isn’t near any vents, heaters, or drafts. 

(Note: If you notice this happening as the seasons are changing, check for vents and drafts first. Sometimes we forget to move our plants before we turn on the heat or AC when the weather changes!)

Medium-brown spots on one side of the plant: If you notice light- to medium-brown spots on the leaves that face your light source, your monstera might be sunburned! Move your plant to a more appropriate location where the sun won’t shine directly on its leaves. Remove any leaves that are more than 50% damaged so your plant can put more energy toward new growth.

Insects: Like most houseplants, monstera epipremnoides can be susceptible to various household pests like spider mites, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, etc.

As a general rule for prevention, make sure to give your plant plenty of light and don’t overwater, because most insects like dark, damp conditions. If you notice signs of insects like small brown or yellow dots on your plant’s leaves, webbing or cottony fluff, or sticky clear residue, you may have an infestation on your hands. 

Rinse your plant in the sink, shower, or outside with a hose or sprayer to dislodge any insects. If you see small brown bumps on the leaves that don’t come off when you spray them, you may need to pick them off with your fingers. (These are scale, and they can be tough to remove!) When you’ve removed the insects, spray the plant down with diluted neem oil. (You may want to do this outside because neem oil has a strong smell.)

Our Leaf Armor also helps remove and prevent insects, so give it a try to protect your plant’s leaves not only from insects, but also from fungus, bacteria, dust, and other debris!

Learn more about getting rid of insects here!

Epipremnoides is a beautiful monstera variety that adds an eye-catching tropical splash to any space and is a great choice for houseplant fans who are looking to branch out! This plant may just become your new favorite aroid and the perfect addition to your collection!

Learn more about monstera care with these resources! 

The Ultimate Monstera Webinar

Monstera Plant Resource Facebook Group