Monstera acuminata is one of the smaller, more compact monstera varieties, and therefore a great choice if you love the look of fenestrated leaves but don’t have room for a massive monstera deliciosa or borsigiana.
This plant is native to the tropical rainforests of Guatemala, Honduras, Belize, and Nicaragua, and can be found climbing up other trees as an epiphyte.
Monstera acuminata isn’t always the easiest monstera to find in garden centers, but it is well worth the search! It’s a beautiful and laid-back plant that works wonderfully for small spaces.
In this article, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about identifying, caring for, and propagating a Monstera acuminata of your own.
Table of Contents
How to Identify a Monstera Acuminata
This variety looks very similar to the popular Monstera adansonii, with its smaller, pointed green leaves with distinctly patterned holes. (There are some key differences, though, which we’ll get into later.) While similar to Monstera adansonii, it differs in color and fenestration pattern, and the juvenile plants look very different from one another.
Here are some of the key characteristics of Monstera acuminata.
Growing Habits
The plant grows more slowly when it’s young and ramps up its growth rate as it matures. In the wild, the young plant will creep along the ground until it finds a tree or other surface to climb. As the plant matures and climbs higher toward the rainforest canopy, it will start to develop those characteristic fenestrations.
It also puts out runners (long, leafless stems) to reproduce. These runners can sometimes reach up to 65 feet long!
Size
In the wild, acuminata can grow up to 65 feet in length but usually won’t exceed 7 or 8 feet long indoors. It can take several years of the right growing conditions to reach its maximum indoor length.
Leaves
In its juvenile form, the leaves of Monstera acuminata are very heart-shaped, thick, waxy and around 4 inches long, but leaves on a mature plant can reach up to 10 inches long.
When the plant is young, its leaves grow in a shingle pattern, sometimes overlapping each other and lying close to the surface it’s growing on, much like Monstera dubia, another popular, smaller monstera variety. Fenestrations may not show up on smaller plants for several years. This makes it easy to tell young plants apart from acuminata’s similar cousin, the adansonii, which produces fenestrated leaves from the get-go.
Flowers
Monstera acuminata grows cream-colored incandescences, which are clusters of small flowers. Once the plant has matured, it can bloom year-round, though it rarely blooms indoors. In the proper conditions, this plant also grows small, berry-like fruits.
Monstera Acuminata Care Guide
If you’ve cared for other varieties of monstera—or even other aroids—you should have no trouble growing a healthy Monstera acuminata. As a tropical plant, your goal should be to mimic the conditions of this plant’s native tropical environment as closely as possible. This means choosing the right soil, watering correctly, and keeping temperatures and humidity levels as rainforest-like as possible.
Once you get into a groove with this plant, you’ll find it quite easy to grow!
Soil
While Monstera acuminata likes consistently damp soil, it doesn’t do well in soil that’s overly soggy.
Make sure to pot your plant in a fast-draining yet loamy soil that will hold on to some water but won’t stay wet for too long.
Our Premium Monstera Potting Soil is the perfect choice, because it’s specifically designed for monstera plants and works beautifully for all aroids! This potting mix balances drainage and water retention, has the ideal pH level for monstera plants, and packs a nutritional punch thanks to the inclusion of recycled green compost. This mix will also stay well-aerated for quite a long time rather than compacting in the pot and negatively affecting drainage.
If you’re more of a DIY person, you can also mix your own potting medium with ingredients like coco coir, compost, worm castings, perlite, orchid bark, etc.
This recipe from Kaylee Ellen on YouTube is great!
In a large bowl, mix together:
- 5 parts orchid bark
- 4 parts coir
- 5 parts perlite
- 2 parts activated charcoal
- 2 parts worm castings
Make sure to pot your plant in a planter with drainage holes. After all, the best soil in the world won’t help if your pot doesn’t drain well!
Light
Your plant will do best with plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. An east-facing window is the best place for a Monstera acuminata, but a south- or west-facing window can also work if you use a sheer curtain to filter the sunlight, or if you place the plant far enough from the window so that it gets plenty of indirect light but where the midday or afternoon sun never touches the leaves. Direct sun can scorch your leaves in no time!
A north-facing window may not provide enough light for your plant to thrive and grow, so you may want to supplement with a full-spectrum grow light if this is your only option.
Water
Monstera acuminata enjoys moderate water levels, so it’s a good idea to water when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or when a moisture meter reads 3-4. (We strongly encourage you to use a meter, by the way, because it gives you a more accurate idea of your soil moisture levels and how well the soil is draining. Here’s the meter we like.)
This should mean that you’re watering every 7-10 days. Keep in mind that this is just a general guideline, and we recommend taking cues from your plant rather than watering on a set schedule. Remember that your monstera may also have different watering needs depending on the temperature and humidity levels, lighting conditions, and time of year. Follow your plant’s lead, and you’re more likely to avoid watering issues.
When you water, you can water thoroughly from the top or bottom water instead. (Here’s more on how to do this.) If you find that your soil takes longer than that to dry out, you might need to repot in a pot with better drainage and/or into a lighter, more aerated soil.
Temperature
Remember that Monstera acuminata hails from the rainforests of Central America, so it’s important to keep this plant warm! Try to maintain temperatures between 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit, never letting them drop below 60 degrees.
Keep your plant well away from drafts, heaters, fireplaces, and air-conditioning or heating vents. These can quickly burn, freeze, or dry out the leaves!
Humidity
As a tropical plant with delicate leaves, Monstera acuminata enjoys humidity!
60% humidity is ideal (you can use a humidity meter to test this), so if you use a lot of indoor climate control and/or live in an arid climate, you may want to set up a humidifier near your plant or place it on a humidity tray. You can buy humidity trays online or at gardening centers, or simply fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water and place the plant on top. This will create some humidity around your plant as the water evaporates.
You can also place your monstera near other plants, because the ambient humidity will be a little higher thanks to the plants’ respiration, and they’ll all benefit!
Bathrooms and kitchens also tend to have higher humidity levels than other rooms. So, if you have the room and the correct lighting conditions, these might be great places for your Monstera acuminata.
Fertilization
During the spring and summer, fertilize regularly with a diluted liquid fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 5-2-3. This will support foliage growth as well as stem and root formation.
We love Monstera Plant Food because it was specifically designed for monstera varieties and is gentle enough to use with each watering. That way, you won’t have to remember a fertilization schedule during the growing season!
(And yes, it’s possible to fertilize if you’re bottom watering. This article explains how.)
Repotting
This plant is a moderate grower, so you’ll most likely need to repot every other year. But you should do it sooner if you notice the soil is compacted, if your plant is root-wrapped, or if you see roots popping out of the top or bottom of the pot.
To do this, add a little fast-draining soil to a clean pot that’s about 2-3 inches larger than your plant’s root ball. This will give it room to grow without holding on to more water than the plant needs and causing overwatering issues.
When you unpot the plant, always tip it on its side and use a trowel to carefully lever it out rather than pulling it upward by the stems. Carefully untangle the root ball to let the roots stretch out and remove as much of the old soil as possible.
If your pot has a moss pole or other support, make sure to hold on to the support as you unpot the plant to keep everything aligned and avoid breaking vines. If you have someone around to help you do this, even better! Keep the support upright as you repot the plant, and make sure to pack the soil tightly enough so that the support can stand up straight in the new pot.
Pot the plant in its new pot and give it a good watering, adding extra soil to the top afterward to account for settling.
After you repot, your plant might droop for a week or so. This is normal! Also, make sure to avoid fertilizing for a month after repotting to give the roots a chance to recover.
Pruning
Pruning is important for removing dead or diseased material from your plant and keeping it healthy. If you notice any dead or dying leaves, go ahead and remove those with clean shears to allow the plant to redirect its energy to healthy growth.
You should also prune any long vines with no leaves, as these really aren’t helping the plant. (They do, however, indicate that your plant is trying to climb. If you see lots of these, set up a moss pole, trellis, or other support for your monstera to climb.)
You can also prune your plant to control its size and shape. As a small monstera species, your acuminata shouldn’t get too big, but you may want to clean it up from time to time. If you want to remove a lot of material, do it gradually over a few weeks rather than all at once to avoid sending your plant into shock.
Step-by-Step Guide to Propagation
Monstera acuminata isn’t the easiest plant to propagate, but it can be done! Follow these steps to air layer your monstera or root a cutting in water or soil.
How to Propagate in Soil
The first step is to take a healthy, viable cutting.
Locate a section of stem with a few young, healthy leaves and a node (this will look like a little brown bump on the opposite side of the stem from a leaf). Using sterilized shears, cut below the node so that your cutting includes the node and the leaves.
Then plant the cutting upright in a small pot filled with rich, peaty soil. (Premium Monstera Potting Soil with a few handfuls of sphagnum or peat moss can work well.
Water thoroughly with distilled water or rainwater with a little Propagation Promoter mixed in. Put the pot in a bright place or under a grow light, and put a plastic bag or plastic wrap over the top of the pot to lock in humidity. Keep the potting medium evenly moist, and let the plastic air out for an hour or so every day.
It’s also important to keep the cutting warm, so you may want to consider investing in a heating mat. Do NOT put your cutting near a heater, because this will dry out or even scorch the leaves.
Once your propagation starts growing and putting out new leaves, you can care for it like a mature plant.
How to Propagate in Water
To propagate your Monstera acuminata in water, take a healthy cutting as described in the previous section. Then place your cutting upright in a clear glass container of non-chlorinated water and Propagation Promoter, with the cut end completely submerged. Don’t let the leaves touch the water.
Put the cutting in a bright place, keep the water topped off, and change the water completely every week. Within a month or two, you should see new roots starting to form! When the roots are at least an inch long, plant the cutting in soil and use the tips in this article to care for your new baby monstera plant.
How to Air Layer Your Monstera
Air layering is the process of growing new roots on the section of the plant you wish to propagate before you actually remove that section from the main plant.
You’ll need a clean knife, sphagnum moss, Propagation Promoter, plastic wrap, and string or twist ties.
Start by locating a section of a vine with a few healthy, preferably young leaves and a node. Use the knife to make a small cut in the stem a half inch or so above the node, taking care not to cut more than ⅓ of the way through the stem. Dab a little Propagation Promoter on the cut with a rag or cotton ball.
Wet a small handful of sphagnum moss and wring it out so that it’s damp but not soaked. Wrap the moss around the wound on the stem, and then wrap the plastic wrap around the moss, securing it with twist ties.
Every day or so, loosen the plastic and use a spray bottle to rewet the moss as needed. Within a few months, you should see roots growing in your little moss and plastic wrap bundle. When those roots are an inch long, use clean shears to cut below the roots and plant the newly rooted cutting in soil.
For best results, try propagating in the spring when your Monstera acuminata is most likely to be actively growing.
Common Problems
Here are the most common issues to watch out for when caring for your Monstera acuminata.
Brown or Yellow Leaves
Discolored leaves can have several causes, but you can use the process of elimination to determine the issue.
Most often, it’s a watering problem. If you notice discoloring, check the moisture levels of the soil, your drainage situation, and lighting conditions (because this can affect how efficiently your acuminata uses water).
Light-brown, crispy spots could mean that your plant is severely underwatered.
Dried-out tips often mean that it needs more humidity.
Yellowing of the lower leaves can mean the plant is slightly overwatered and/or that it needs more light.
Yellowing all over the plant is more often a sign of underwatering (especially if your acuminata is also drooping).
Nutrient deficiency can also cause leaves to yellow, so if the moisture levels of the soil and the lighting conditions seem to be okay, think about the last time you repotted or fertilized.
Dark, soft spots can indicate severe overwatering and even root rot, especially if they’re accompanied by yellowing or discolored stems.
Root Rot
If your plant has soft, black-brown spots and even browning, squishy stems, you might have root rot.
To treat, repot your acuminata into a clean pot with fresh, fast-draining soil. Remove as much of the old soil from the root ball as you can. Be sure to trim away any rotting roots (which will appear dark, squishy, and will smell awful).
Once you’ve repotted, put your plant in a bright place and let the soil dry out a little more between waterings. When you water, use a little Root Supplement to help the roots heal and prevent the infection from progressing.
Pests
Monstera acuminata can be affected by common household pests like spider mites, thrips, mealybugs, scale, aphids, and fungus gnats.
You may have an insect infestation if you notice lots of little brown, red, or yellow dots on the leaves, sticky clear residue, or cottony webbing.
In general, the best plan of attack is to remove insects by rinsing the leaves, using a lint roller, or even picking insects off manually (this might be necessary with scale).
After that, you’ll want to treat the leaves with a mild insecticidal soap or diluted neem oil to kill off stragglers and prevent them from returning. You may need to do this a few times over a period of weeks to kill off new generations of pests as they hatch.
Read more about dealing with insects on your monstera:
How to Get Insects OFF Your Monstera
Thrips on Monstera | How to Identify and Get Rid of Them
Scale on Monstera | How to Identify and Treat
Drooping Leaves
Drooping leaves can also have many causes, and not all of them require action.
One of the most common causes is simply root shock. If you recently repotted or moved your Monstera acuminata, your plant might droop for a week or two before perking back up on its own. The less you do it during this time, the better!
However, cold, thirst, and overwatering can also cause drooping. Check for drafts from vents or windows, and take a look at the soil as well. If the soil has dried out, give your plant a drink! If it’s still soaked a week after you watered, your pot and soil may not be draining quickly enough.
FAQ Monstera Acuminata
What’s the difference between Monstera Acuminata vs. Adansonii?
These plants look very similar, so it’s easy to mix them up!
Here are a few key differences to look for:
The leaves of Monstera adansonii tend to be larger, while the leaves of acuminata are smaller, more elongated, and pointier.
Mature adansonii leaves can reach up to 14 inches in length, while acuminata leaves will max out at around 10 inches long. Adansonii leaves are flatter, while acuminata leaves are often smoother in texture, but more puckered and don’t lie quite as flat.
The holes of acuminata are smaller and less symmetrical than those of adansonii but also more numerous.
Color can also be a key difference. Acuminata is a deep emerald-green color, while adansonii plants are usually a lighter green.
With this in mind, though, it can still be tough to tell them apart if you don’t have one of each to compare side by side. But with a little practice, you can start to see the differences!
Monstera acuminata: A must-have for your houseplant collection!
Monstera acuminata may not be a common monstera variety, but it’s beautiful and an excellent choice for monstera lovers who don’t have a lot of space. Once you locate one, you might find it to be an easygoing plant with incredible beauty. It may quickly become your new favorite houseplant!
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